Reopening the past: a review of Lin Heung Tea House
Five trolleys. Five steamy treasures. I sat around the small wooden table and suddenly I was five again, waiting for my turn at the candy store. This time, it was dimsum. She approached our table with a warm smile, hand on the lid of the bamboo steamer, inviting us to feast upon her prized possessions. “Sik mm sik cha siu bao?”. She gently asked. In the next hour, we enjoyed everything from the cha siu bao, the chewy ham sui gok to the fluffy ma la go, and of course, we couldn’t forget the jasmine tea.
As one would expect in any trusted dim sum house, the fried ham sui gok featured on the menu. Its chewy pork and mushroom filling, as well as the smooth chaa siu cheung topped with soy sauce offered a true savoury taste of Hong Kong. For those craving a light sweetness, the Ma La Go, with its Malaysian origin but Hong Kong’s authentic twist, would be a perfect option. It comes warm and fluffy with the perfect balance of brown sugar and custard, satisfying but not overpowering.
Without a doubt, my favourite would definitely be the chaa siu bao- the white steamy bun filled with honey barbeque pork. You can’t go wrong with it! Upon first bite, I completely lost track of other dishes. This bun was a time machine back to Saturday lunches with my grandparents, where all of us children only screamed for these heavenly white buns.
Whilst we enjoyed Lin Heung’s dimsum, our experience was truly elevated with their traditional selection of jasmine tea. As they poured the tea into the classic tea cups donning the “Lin Heung Tea House” inscription, we were soon captivated by its delicate spring scent. Flowers bloomed beyond the teacup, transcending onto the paintings of the walls around us.
A tea ceremony, however, this was not. As we finished our cup of tea, we returned back to the restaurant's hustle and bustle. Although it was only 9 in the morning, the restaurant was already three quarters full, mainly with elderly people. The flick of newspapers and the chatter of regulars firmly reminded us we were in a century old tea house. Our visit marked the second day of reopening since closure back in 2022. Looking back at old photos of Lin Heung Tea House, one can’t help but feel the loss of its once warm atmosphere. The red lanterns out of sight, replaced with brand new air conditioning and industrial lighting. If a cozy tea house is your preference, head down to Luk Yu Tea House which is just a short walk away. There, you will be welcomed into a three story building. They offer the same classics in a decor reminiscent of old Hong Kong.
Located in the busiest district, Central Hong Kong, one will immediately catch sight of Lin Heung Tea House from its neon sign hanging in the scorching Hong Kong weather. “蓮香”, it reads. For less than 100HKD per head, Lin Heung’s dim sum is well worth the experience! Amidst the sweet and savoury options, you may be lucky enough to rediscover a few childhood memories.
